Chagres River and Bocas Del Toro

Here a few more pics from Shelter Bay, hauling the boat and my favorite sloth!



Thia liitle guy is o Coati-mundi and the next one a Capucin Monkey.


Leaving the Panama Yachtclub early in the morning we motored out and crossed the inbound and outbound shipping lanes for the Panama Canal and in quite strong wind made our way up to the breakwater which guards the whole canal approaches.
Although we knew there was plenty of room for a couple of ships and us, the big waves and a cross current made our exit feel quite precarious.
Once we had managed to get well clear of the pounding surf we headed almost south towards the Chagres river.
THE CHAGRES RIVER SEEN FROM THE FORT

This is only a mere 5 or 6 miles from the breakwater but to get there we had to pick our way between the anchored ships waiting for their transit.
The entrance to the river is quite difficult, the water about 15 ft deep but reefs on both sides tend to make breaking seas cross the channel almost constantly making the water hard to read. Once through the gnarly entrance the water is clear, smooth and deepens to 30 ft.
THIS LITTLE GUY WE SAW IN THE CHAGRES WHILE WE WERE EXPLORING.

Fort Lorenzo is on the bluff at the river entrance and is in fairly good condition considering the number of times it has been attacked. Although some was rebuilt between Morgan's pirate attacks when he raided Panama and when the English under Admiral Vernon took the fort in 1740. (see picture for more info)
SHORT HISTORY OF THE FORT

When we walked up to the fort we went into the company of our friend Ray, of Aventura. Ray is a single hander who writes for magazines, has a professional juggling act and is an all-round great character!
LOCAL BUTTERFLY
The road was mostly through jungle and we were able to see and photograph a troop of Capuchin Monkeys in the canopy above us.

Whilst clambering around the old building Jeff managed to terminally wreck the knee joint of his expensive new artificial leg.
JEFF AT THE FORT, LEG STILL WORKING!
We managed to hobble back to Stravaig. Luckily the San Diego Company who had made the leg had provided him with a peg leg which could be screwed in to replace the damaged part as a temporary fix. Did make him look like a pirate though!
STRAVAIG IN THE CHAGRES RIVER

FLOWERING CALEBASH TREE. PYGMEE KINGFISHER
TOUCAN
After a few days of exploring the river we headed of to Bocas del Toro.The weather was not very pleasant and we had strong winds and high seas but they were from behind us, so we made good progress. About 40 miles from Bocas the wind flipped around onto the nose and we started to realize that a strong current was also running against us. After bashing into all of this and getting nowhere we decided that discretion was the better part of valor and we turned around and sailed 100 miles back to the river Chagres!
We arrived back at the river mouth in heavy seas and whilst waiting for day light we managed to pick up a very large wad of seaweed on our folding propeller, which prevented us from using high rpm's on the engine as the weed was causing the shaft to vibrate and whip.
We risked it and managed to get into the river safely.
Now all the books say that the river Chagres is infested with crocodiles! So, as you can imagine Jeff cut the seaweed of the propeller in less then half a minute!
We tested the engine post seaweed and found that it was pretty much functioning normally. So after spending a few more days in the river we once again set out for Bocas and this time despite horrendous rainstorms etc. we actually made our landfall there quite safely.
Bocas is a group of islands that surround and create a series of lagoons, which are sheltered from the Caribbean Sea. The island group extends to a point very close to the Panama mainland.
OUR LITTLE FRIEND OF 4 YEARS OLD WHO CAME OUT BY HIMSLEF TO SELL US A BAG WITH 2 LIMES!
The internal waterways of Bocas are constantly frequented by high powered open speed boats which are taxis ( pangas) and small groups of local Indians fishing from dug-out canoes. . The internal waterways of Bocas are constantly frequented by high powered open speed boats which are taxis ( pangas) and small groups of local Indians fishing from dug-out canoes.
Bocas town is situated on one of the islands and has numerous groceries and hardware stores interspersed with bar, restaurants and tourist shops. It is quite a surfers hang-out and the streets are full of young people here for water sports.
When we first arrived we managed to arrange for a temporary replacement knee to be shipped here for Jeff's leg while his broken part was being assessed. We called the company and inquired about warranty for the part and would you believe there were 3 days only left on its warranty!
They were very nice, honored the warranty and send me a proper replacement part.
Altogether a very lucky bit of timing!
The weather here has been wet, very wet and unbelievably wet!! We have not seen a single 24 hour period without at least some heavy rain. None the less, this is a delightful place with friendly fellow yachtsmen and an active social community.

GREEN POISON DART FROG

We have made a couple of excursions to other bays and enjoyed visiting a Chocolate Factory and some great nature walks.

LOCAL PETROL STATION

Some new friends on a catamaran called Wanda Jeane, Randy and Mary Ellen, were heading up to their new home at Boquetee and offered to take us with them as far as David, the second largest city in Panama. There our friend Chuck picked us up and took us to Volcan, where he and Sharon have their new home. Boquete is one of two fairly new communities, high on the slopes of the volcano, where many Americans have chosen to build second homes.
Our friends Chuck and Sharon live in the other development called Volcan, which is about the same distance from David as Boquete, but on the opposite side.
VIEW FROM CHUCK'S HOUSE, THE VOLCANO
We had a delightful visit with Chuck, despite it being a lot colder then we had anticipated. The wind was also blowing strongly and they had experienced hurricane force winds the week before we arrived so there was still a lot of damage to be seen around the country side on the drive up.
CHUCK AND SHARON'S HOUSE

We flew back to Bocas where the rain was still raining and has done ever since. In between cloud bursts we installed the new self steering wind vane which we will try out as soon as we have a sunny day!
Jeff has been somewhat under the weather as he had 3 teeth out and almost immediately ended up in bed for a week with a bad case of the flu. He is doing a lot better and Jose will soon send him back to work.
We are looking forward to sailing up to the Colombian island of Providencia where we hope to meet Pete and Robbie, old friends on their boat PR2. From there we shall all be planning some sort of a brief trip we hope to Florida, always bearing in mind that we shall be in a safe part of the Caribbean ( Curacao?) for hurricane season.
FRESH LOBSTER WE BOUGHT FROM THE LOCAL INDIANS
Bocas town is situated on one of the islands and has numerous groceries and hardware stores interspersed with bar, restaurants and tourist shops. It is quite a surfers hang-out and the streets are full of young people here for water sports.
We have made a couple of excursions to other bays and enjoyed visiting a Chocolate Factory and nature walks.

Some new friends on a catamaran called Wanda Jeane, Randy and Mary Ellen, were heading up to their new home at Boquetee and offered to take us with them as far as David, the second largest city in Panama. There our friend Chuck picked us up and took us to Volcan, where he and Sharon have their new home. Boquete is one of two fairly new communities, high on the slopes of the volcano, where many Americans have chosen to build second homes.
Our friends Chuck and Sharon live in the other development called Volcan, which is about the same distance from David as Boquete, but on the opposite side.
ONE OF HUNDRES OF ORCHIDS AT AN ORCHID FARM NEAR
VOLCAN
We had a delightful visit with Chuck, despite it being a lot colder then we had anticipated. The wind was also blowing strongly and they had experienced hurricane force winds the week before we arrived so there was still a lot of damage to be seen around the country side on the drive up.
We flew back to Bocas where the rain was still raining and has done ever since. In between cloud bursts we installed the new self steering wind vane which we will try out as soon as we have a sunny day!
Jeff has been somewhat under the weather as he had 3 teeth out and almost immediately ended up in bed for a week with a bad case of the flu. He is doing a lot better and Jose will soon send him back to work.
We are looking forward to sailing up to the Colombian island of Providencia where we hope to meet Pete and Robbie, old friends on their boat PR2. From there we shall all be planning some sort of a brief trip we hope to Florida, always bearing in mind that we shall be in a safe part of the Caribbean ( Curacao?) for hurricane season.
.

Comments

You two have got to be two of the most adventurous people we know. Here, there, up, down, over, in the air and making new friends and getting fabulous photos of it all. Glad to hear your adventures are what keep you going! Miss you, Susea & Gene s/v Moody Blues
wil said…
Lieve schatten,

Wat een verhaal weer.
Foto's zijn prachtig en heel erg leuk dat jullie bij Chuck langs zijn geweest.
Ik denk dat het deze zomer toch moet lukken elkaar ergens te zien.

Liefs,

Wil

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